Pacentro: the borgo of Castello Caldora at the foot of the Majella
Three crenellated towers, the Corsa degli Zingari, Madonna's roots: a medieval borgo among Italy's most beautiful, in the Valle Peligna
Three square towers, seen from a distance, crowning a rocky spur at 700 meters above sea level. That's what you see as you approach Pacentro from Sulmona — and it's the first sign that you're arriving in one of Abruzzo's most beautiful borghi. Pacentro is a member of the Borghi più Belli d'Italia (Italy's Most Beautiful Villages) club, is part of the Majella National Park, is the ancestral home of pop icon Madonna's paternal grandparents (the Ciccone family), and every first Sunday of September it becomes the stage for one of Italy's most visceral and enduring traditions: the Corsa degli Zingari, a barefoot footrace held for over 560 years in honor of the Madonna di Loreto.
But it's also, simply, a magnificently preserved medieval borgo where you can wander cobblestone alleys, admire rusticated stone doorways and Renaissance palaces — a place where the relationship between natural rock and hewn stone is so harmonious that the village seems to have grown out of the mountain itself. In this guide we take you through Pacentro from every angle: its history, the Castello Caldora-Cantelmo, the churches, the noble palaces, the Corsa degli Zingari, the historical reenactments, and everything you need to plan your visit.
Where Pacentro is located
Pacentro lies in the province of L'Aquila, on the eastern flank of the Valle Peligna, at the foot of the Monte Morrone massif. It is essentially the western gateway to the Majella National Park: a few minutes from the historic center and you're already inside the Park, and an hour's trek brings you up to 1,500 meters.
The borgo sits at 700 meters above sea level (some sources give 690 m), but the municipal territory stretches from 430 meters in the valley floor all the way up to 2,793 meters at the summit of Monte Amaro — the second-highest peak in the Apennines after Gran Sasso. It has just over 1,200 inhabitants, is connected to Sulmona by just 9 km of uphill road (15 minutes by car), and sits about 30 minutes from the Pratola Peligna-Sulmona exit on the A25 motorway.
Origins: from the Spoleto dukes to Jacopo Caldora
Pacentro is first mentioned in a document from the 8th century, when the Spoleto dukes donated it to the monastery of San Vincenzo al Volturno. A legend rooted in the Trojan-Virgilian tradition, preserved in medieval local lore, holds instead that the village was founded by Pacinus, a Trojan hero left behind by Aeneas on the banks of the Tiber who eventually made his way to the foot of Monte Morrone. It's one of those mythic founding stories that the locals tell without taking too seriously — but with a certain pride.
Between the 10th and 11th centuries, following Saracen and Norman raids in the Valle Peligna, many houses and churches were built around the castle and the borough's economy began to improve. In 1170, the Catalogue of the Barons of the Kingdom of Naples records that Pacentro was home to 48 families.
The Caldora period (1270–1464)
Pacentro's golden age coincides with the rule of the Caldora family, one of the most powerful feudal dynasties in the Kingdom of Naples during the struggle between the Angevins and Aragonese for the throne. The Caldora family, of French origin, had arrived in southern Italy in the wake of Charles I of Anjou in the 13th century. They established one of their principal fiefs at Pacentro.
The most celebrated figure is Jacopo Caldora (Castel del Giudice, 1369 – Colle Sannita, 1439), a condottiere of European stature: he fought for Joanna II of Naples, then for René of Anjou, was Count of Trivento and Lord of numerous lands across Abruzzo and Molise. He married Countess Covella di Celano, a powerful and influential noblewoman of the County of the Marsi. A man of culture as much as a soldier, a lover of poetry, he preferred to be called simply "Jacopo." Under his leadership, Pacentro reached the height of its political and architectural importance.
The Caldora period came to a close in 1464, when the Aragonese under Ferrante of Aragon achieved their decisive victory, leading to the seizure of the fiefs from Jacopo's son, Antonio Caldora. From that point on, Pacentro passed through several hands: Cantelmo, Orsini, Colonna, and eventually the Barberini of Maffeo (the future Pope Urban VIII).
Castello Caldora-Cantelmo: the symbol of the borgo
The Castello Caldora (sometimes called Castello Cantelmo-Caldora to acknowledge the Cantelmo family's contribution to later decorative work) is Pacentro's landmark monument and one of the most recognizable medieval fortresses in Abruzzo.
Construction history
11th century: first construction phase by the Normans, who established a strategic outpost here to control the Valle Peligna.
13th century: the great northeast tower is raised — the "puntone" of the original triangular-plan castle.
13th–14th century: partial destruction by Frederick II of Swabia, as part of his military campaigns in the south.
15th century: the condottiere Jacopo Caldora strengthens and restores the castle, adding the three main square towers. The complex takes on its current quadrangular plan.
Later: the Cantelmo and Orsini families add decorations, stone coats of arms, garlands, and complete the battlements.
1706: a severe earthquake damages the battlements and parts of the structure.
Modern era: a long period of abandonment.
1957: the castle becomes the property of the Municipality of Pacentro.
From the 1960s onward: extensive restoration and consolidation work makes much of the castle visitable once again.
Architecture
The castle has a square plan featuring:
Three square towers (original, 15th century) and three cylindrical towers (added in the following century).
Double curtain wall: the outer one more recent and better preserved, the inner one older and partially ruined.
Drawbridge entrance, flanked by two guard towers.
Deep moat around the perimeter.
Cannon embrasures along the walls, evidence of adaptation to the new military technologies of the Renaissance.
The three main towers
Torre del Re (northwest, behind the drawbridge): named after the tradition of the feudal lord appearing on it in a ceremonial rite upon taking possession of the castle.
Torre Fantasma (northeast): so named because of a folk legend claiming the tower is haunted by a female apparition. It preserves a curious sculpted frieze of a woman, believed by some historians to be a portrait of Rita Cantelmo, Jacopo Caldora's mother.
Torre d'Assedio: the third main tower, serving a defensive function.
The view
From the towers your gaze sweeps across the entire Valle Peligna — Sulmona, Pratola, Corfinio, the slopes of the Majella — and on the clearest days reaches all the way to the foothills of Gran Sasso. Behind you, the Majella massif seems almost within arm's reach. It's one of the most memorable views in all of Abruzzo, especially at sunset.
The castle is open to visitors by appointment. For up-to-date opening times, contact the Municipality of Pacentro or the local tourist office.
The historic center: an open-air museum
Pacentro's historic center unwinds like a ribbon of stone from the base of the castle down to the valley floor. It follows the classic medieval layout: narrow streets, staircases, alleys that open unexpectedly onto panoramic little squares, arches connecting buildings, and urban gateways marking the boundaries of the ancient walled city. Everything is built in local limestone, the same material as the surrounding mountain — "stone within stone," as the people of Pacentro aptly put it.
The churches
Chiesa Madre di Santa Maria Maggiore (16th century): the village's main church, with a façade adorned by a carved cornice, a visible sundial, and an interior with a ceiling entirely decorated in stucco. A fine Baroque wooden pulpit. It faces onto a lovely piazza-style square.
Chiesa della Madonna di Loreto (late 16th century, façade restored in the 19th century): the heart-church of the Confraternity of the Madonna di Loreto and the finish line of the Corsa degli Zingari. Inside, a central niche holds the icon of the Madonna di Loreto, to whom the Corsa tradition is dedicated.
Chiesa della Misericordia (15th–16th century): home to an artistic heritage spanning the centuries, with devotional altars and carved doorways.
The noble palaces
Pacentro preserves a remarkable network of noble palaces, testimony to the borgo's prosperity from the 16th to the 19th century:
Palazzo La Rocca — today home to the Town Hall.
Palazzo Avolio
Palazzo Tonno (17th century)
Palazzo Massa
Palazzo Granata, with an imposing monumental doorway.
Palazzo Simone
All can be admired from the outside as you walk through the borgo. Some are occasionally opened to the public for cultural events.
Hidden gems: the Canaje, the Preta Tonna, the rock paintings
Pacentro has a few unique urban curiosities:
The "Canaje": the village's ancient communal washhouse, located on the slope leading up to the castle. It has an almond-shaped basin carved from local stone and was used by the village women well into the mid-20th century. A small monument to the anthropology of women's labor.
The "Preta Tonna": a large hollow stone, circular in shape, with a dual function: it served as a measure for grain at market, and as a tool for public humiliation of insolvent debtors, who were forced to sit on it naked in the center of the village to repay their debt. A medieval institution that survived into recent times.
The octagonal fountain (18th century): in front of the Chiesa Madre, with a carved stone basin and human faces sculpted on each of its eight panels.
Rock paintings in the Grotta di Colle Nusca: just outside the center, a karst cave preserves prehistoric paintings made with red ochre, depicting armed men with bows and arrows engaged in hunting scenes. They testify to human presence in the area since prehistoric times.
The Corsa degli Zingari: 560 years of tradition
Every first Sunday of September, Pacentro celebrates the event for which it is internationally known: the Corsa degli Zingari, in honor of the Madonna di Loreto. It is one of Italy's oldest and most visceral folk-religious traditions, compared by many to the Palio di Siena in terms of emotional intensity and sense of identity.
The course
The runners — a maximum of 30 male participants, with priority given to residents — gather on Colle Ardingo (sometimes called Colle Ardinghi), which rises above the borgo. At the sound of the bells of the church of the Madonna di Loreto, they set off:
A descent along a steep and rugged rocky trail, through brambles, sharp stones, and unstable ground.
Crossing the Vella stream at the valley floor, barefoot in the water.
A steep climb back up the narrow village streets to the Madonna di Loreto church.
Everything takes place barefoot. The race lasts only 5–6 minutes but is an extreme physical ordeal: participants arrive with bleeding feet, cuts everywhere, utterly exhausted. Volunteers attend to them at the finish line. By the rules of the race, competitors may push and strike each other along the way — much like at the Palio di Siena.
Uncertain origins
The origins of the Corsa are historically uncertain, a subject of debate among local historians. Two main theories stand out:
Medieval-military origin (15th century): the most widely accepted version. Passed down orally for generations, it holds that until the 15th century the race served as a method of selecting and recruiting young men from Pacentro for the Caldora family's militias. The fastest and most resilient became elite foot soldiers or pages for the condottiere.
Religious origin (18th century): some documentary evidence records the formal institution of the race in the 1700s, as a devotional vow in place of the pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Loreto (the "real" one in the Marche region). Pacentrans who could not afford the journey to Loreto performed this penitential rite instead.
Both traditions are likely true: an ancient military selection race was later transformed into a religious rite in the 18th century, fusing pagan and Christian elements.
The name "zingari"
The word "zingari" here carries no ethnic meaning. In the old Abruzzese dialect it meant "starving wretches," "barefoot and ragged" — poor people without shoes or decent clothes. It was the ironic, devotional self-description of the young men of Pacentro who, wearing only brief white shorts, ran barefoot over the stones like zingari.
The prizes
Historically, the winner received a piece of cloth to make himself a new outfit — a precious gift in a rural society. In the Middle Ages, according to tradition, the winner could aspire to become a page at the prince's court. Today there are symbolic cash prizes, but as the Abruzzese historian Franco Cercone explains: "Today the young men of Pacentro no longer run to gain something, but to be something."
The Corsa degli Zingarelli
On the same day, two hours before the adult race, the Corsa degli Zingarelli takes place: 30 children between the ages of 2 and 12 run barefoot through the main streets of the historic center to the sound of the Madonna di Loreto's bells. This is the moment when the tradition is passed on to the next generation.
Toward UNESCO Heritage status
The process of nominating the Corsa as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity is underway. The Associazione Corsa degli Zingari, the Confraternity of the Madonna di Loreto, and the Fondazione Univerde are working on the necessary documentation. In 2025 the Corsa was presented to the Italian Chamber of Deputies, a sign of its national significance.
The legend of the Madonna di Loreto in Pacentro
Pacentro's devotion to the Madonna di Loreto has a fascinating legendary origin. Local religious tradition holds that the Virgin Mary, during the miraculous "flight" of the Holy House of Loreto from the East toward the Marche (according to medieval legend, the house of Nazareth was carried through the air by angels), made a stopover in Pacentro.
The legend is also celebrated in a Renaissance masterpiece by an Abruzzese artist: the painting "Translation of the Holy House of Loreto" by Saturnino Gatti (L'Aquila, ~1463–1518), today on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. It is one of the most important Abruzzese Renaissance paintings preserved abroad, connecting Pacentro to the great Italian Renaissance through a subtle but authentic thread.
Other festivals and traditions
I Caldoreschi (mid-August, ~6 days)
In the 1990s the Municipality of Pacentro established a medieval-Renaissance reenactment dedicated to the Caldora era. The festival, called "I Caldoreschi," lasts about a week and is held between late July and early August. It includes:
Arrolamento della Gente d'Arme: a reenactment of Antonio Caldora's recruitment of knights in 1450, with costumed processions departing from the castle and winding through the borgo.
Matrimonio dei Caldoreschi: a reenactment of the wedding between Jacopo Caldora and Medea d'Evoli, Countess of Trivento, celebrated at the castle.
Palio delle Sette Porte: a competition between neighborhoods.
Knight investitures, heresy trials, duels, medieval banquets.
The entire village transforms into an open-air theater for six days.
Sagra della Polta (early August)
Dedicated to a local culinary specialty: "Polta" is a peasant dish made from boiled vegetables sautéed with garlic and chili pepper. It sounds simple, but it's the kind of dish where the quality of the vegetables (strictly seasonal, ideally from local gardens) and respect for tradition make all the difference. Served hot with toasted country bread.
Madonna (the singer): Pacentro roots
Pacentro is internationally known as the ancestral home of Madonna Louise Ciccone's paternal grandparents, one of the world's most celebrated pop artists. The Ciccone family emigrated to the United States from this Abruzzese borgo in the early 20th century, like so many other Abruzzese families during the great migration. Gaetano Ciccone, Madonna's paternal grandfather, was a native of Pacentro.
The Casa Ciccone, the family's old home in the borgo, is preserved today as a trace of these origins. Madonna herself has visited the village in the past and has publicly acknowledged her Abruzzese roots. Curiously, Mike Pompeo, former U.S. Secretary of State, also has Pacentro origins: this small borgo on the slopes of Monte Morrone has contributed to American history in unexpected ways.
What to do in Pacentro: beyond the borgo
Trekking and hikes
Pacentro is the natural gateway to the Majella National Park. From the surrounding area, trails lead to:
Eremo di San Germano near Passo San Leonardo.
Thòlos di Pacentro: ancient dry-stone shepherds' huts, typical of Apennine rural architecture.
Cascata del Vallone: a beautiful waterfall reachable by a moderate-difficulty trail.
Passo San Leonardo: one of the 5 ski resorts in the Majella Park, also a great starting point for summer hikes.
Trails toward Monte Amaro (for experienced hikers).
Adrenaline sports
Pacentro is home to Abruzzo's first Zipline, called the "Volo dell'Angelo" (Angel's Flight): a steel cable stretched between two points at different elevations, along which you glide in a harness for a "flying" experience above the valleys. Suitable for everyone aged 14 and up; advance booking required.
Crafts
Pacentro maintains a living tradition of terracotta Nativity figurine carving. Local artisans produce Nativity scene figures (shepherds, animals, characters from the Christmas story) that faithfully depict traditional Abruzzese costumes and trades in fine detail. You'll find them in the workshops of the historic center, especially near the piazza of the Chiesa Madre. They make excellent souvenirs.
Food and drink: what to eat in Pacentro
Pacentro's cuisine is rooted in the mountain tradition of Abruzzo: hearty dishes, local ingredients, ancient recipes that have endured. The main specialties:
Polta: the peasant dish of the August sagra, seasonal vegetables boiled and sautéed.
Maccheroni alla chitarra: fresh egg pasta cut with the characteristic frame (the "chitarra"), typical of inland Abruzzo.
Pallotte cacio e ova: traditional Abruzzese meatless "meatballs" made with stale bread, eggs, pecorino, and parsley, fried and then cooked in tomato sauce.
Agnello cacio e uova: a typical Easter lamb dish.
Pecora alla callara: mutton slowly cooked in large copper pots (the "callare").
Local cheeses from the Abruzzese sheep farming supply chain, cured meats, acacia honey, jams.
Recommended restaurants in the village: the Taverna de li Caldora on the main square, and several family-run trattorias in the historic center. Reservations recommended on weekends and during peak season.
How to get to Pacentro
By car
From the A25 Pescara–Rome motorway: take the Pratola Peligna–Sulmona exit, then follow signs for Sulmona and then Pacentro (about 20–25 minutes total from the exit). From Rome: 2 hours. From Pescara: 1 hour.
Public transport
Trains run to Sulmona station (connected to Rome by Frecciarossa and to Pescara by regional services). From Sulmona, local buses reach Pacentro in about 20 minutes. Without a car it's still difficult to explore the surrounding area: it's better to rent a car in Sulmona.
Where to stay
Pacentro has a good range of accommodation for its size:
B&Bs and vacation rentals in the historic center, often in restored medieval palaces.
Agriturismi in the outlying hamlets and surrounding countryside.
For those wanting a larger property: hotels in Sulmona, 15 minutes away, with many more options and competitive prices.
Prices are generally fair: 60–100 € per night for a double room in a B&B, 80–150 € at an agriturismo.
When to go
Spring (April–June)
An excellent season to visit. Mild temperatures, wildflowers in bloom, all trails open. Great timing for trekking in the Majella Park.
Summer (July–August)
Peak season: the borgo comes alive with I Caldoreschi (mid-August), the Sagra della Polta (early August), and numerous smaller festivals. Pleasantly cool thanks to the altitude. Book accommodation and restaurants in advance.
September: the Corsa degli Zingari
The first Sunday of September is the highlight of the year for anyone wanting to witness Pacentro's defining ritual. The borgo fills with participants and spectators. Arrive very early in the day, book accommodation months ahead, and prepare yourself for an intense experience.
Autumn–winter
A quieter atmosphere, spectacular foliage in October, magical scenery with possible snow in winter. There may be road closures in case of ice or snow. The Passo San Leonardo ski resort is 25 minutes away.
Frequently asked questions
How much time do you need to visit Pacentro?
For the historic center alone: a 2–3 hour stroll through the alleys, churches, and castle exterior. For a more in-depth visit including castle interiors, churches, and lunch: a full day. For those wanting to combine it with hikes in the Majella Park: at least 2–3 days.
Can you visit the castle interior?
Yes, by appointment. Contact the Municipality of Pacentro or the local tourist office for up-to-date opening times. The visit includes the wall walkways, some restored interior rooms, and access to the main towers with panoramic views.
Is the Corsa degli Zingari open to spectators?
Yes, it's a free public event held on public streets and in the piazza. Arrive early in the morning (the race takes place in the late afternoon, but the village fills up from the earliest hours). The church of the Madonna di Loreto is the finish line and the spot where the largest crowds gather.
Can you eat "Polta" year-round?
The Sagra della Polta is held once a year in early August, but some restaurants in the borgo (and in Sulmona) feature it on their regular menus, especially in summer and autumn when seasonal vegetables are available. Worth asking for specifically.
Is Pacentro suitable for families with children?
Yes, with a few things to keep in mind. The village streets are uphill and cobblestoned, which can be tough for strollers. Best suited to children aged 4–5 and up who can walk independently. The castle and historical reenactments are a big hit with kids. The Zipline is for ages 14 and up.
Can I visit the Casa Ciccone (Madonna's grandparents' home)?
The outside of the house is visible from the alley and marked with a plaque. The interior is private property and is not officially open to visitors, but it draws the curiosity of many of the singer's international fans. Ask in the shops in the center: the people of Pacentro are usually happy to point you in the right direction.
What should I wear to visit the borgo?
Casual, but with comfortable non-slip shoes (uphill cobblestones). In summer, it's worth bringing an extra layer for the evenings (even in July and August temperatures can drop below 15–18°C at night, thanks to the 700 m elevation). For church visits, dress modestly.
Can I take guided hikes?
Yes. Pacentro is one of the bases for environmental hiking guides on the western Morrone–Majella flank. Half-day and full-day excursions run to the Eremo di San Germano, the thòlos, Passo San Leonardo, and the slopes of Monte Amaro. Booking recommended; typical cost 25–45 € per person for a half-day.
Discover Pacentro with Stravagando
Pacentro is one of those borghi that rewards those who go beyond the classic half-day visit. To truly understand this land you need time: climb to the castle at sunset, walk the alleys at dawn when the shutters begin to open, join a sagra, listen to the elders recount the Corsa degli Zingari, eat Polta at a family trattoria. It's an experience that engages the eyes as much as the ears, the palate, and the sense of history.
Stravagando is the Italian marketplace for experiences exactly like these: guided visits to medieval villages, tours of film sets, D'Annunzio-themed experiences, Roman archaeology trails, led by carefully selected local hosts. We're putting together our Abruzzo catalogue right now— included — and in the coming months you'll be able to book directly here.
In the meantime, if you are tour guides, tour organizers, cultural heritage experts, or museum operators and want to join our circle, write to us: we're looking for you.
And if you're a traveler, subscribe to the Stravagando newsletter: we'll let you know as soon as the first experiences are bookable online — with transparent pricing, certified hosts, and an editorial curation we promise feels different from the big generalist marketplaces.
For further reading: our article on the Majella National Park and UNESCO Geopark; the Celestinian hermitages of the Majella; the Valle dell'Orfento and Caramanico Terme; and the Confetti of Sulmona, the city 15 minutes from Pacentro — famous for Ovid, the Pelino confetti sweets, and the Madonna che Scappa.
Buon viaggio.