Pecorino di Farindola: the world's only cheese made with pig rennet
History, tradition, and craft behind the Slow Food Presidium of eastern Abruzzo — produced only by women on the slopes of Gran Sasso
There is a cheese in Abruzzo that is probably unique in the world. Not because of its aging, not because of the sheep breed, not because of the pasture herbs — but because of the rennet. Pecorino di Farindola is made with pig rennet, not the calf rennet used in every other Italian and European pecorino. It is the only case in Italy — and in all likelihood the world — of a sheep's milk cheese made with porcine rennet. A technique that dates back to Roman cuisine — the ancient Vestini, an Italic people who settled precisely in this territory, produced the Caseus Vestinus using the same method — and one that survived through the centuries thanks to the women of Farindola, guardians of a recipe passed down through generations of family shepherding.
Today, Pecorino di Farindola has been a Slow Food Presidium since 2002, produced in extremely limited quantities by a handful of artisan farms in nine municipalities across the provinces of Pescara and Teramo, on the eastern slopes of Gran Sasso. It holds no DOP or IGP designation, but it is a product that captures everything Abruzzese gastronomy does best: deep history, a unique technique, local raw materials, scarce production, and exceptional quality. In this guide, we tell you everything: what it is, how it's made, why it's so special, where to buy it, and how to enjoy it.
What is Pecorino di Farindola
Pecorino di Farindola is a hard cheese made from raw sheep's milk, produced exclusively in the hilly-mountain area of the eastern side of the Gran Sasso massif, largely within the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park. The wheels are medium-sized (1.5–3 kg), cylindrical in shape with straight sides, and the rind ranges from straw-yellow to dark brown depending on aging.
The characteristic that makes it unique is the use of pig rennet instead of the common calf or lamb rennet. This is not a minor technical detail: it completely transforms the product. Porcine rennet gives the cheese:
A bold, peppery, slightly musky aroma, distinctive and unmistakable compared to any other Italian pecorino.
A grainy yet consistently moist paste, even when the cheese has been aged for over a year — this is the tactile "signature" of Pecorino di Farindola, a creaminess you simply won't find in other pecorinos.
A pleasantly spicy flavor that deepens with aging and captures all the aromas of the Abruzzese pasture.
The history: from the Vestini to the present day
The production of cheese with pig rennet is an ancient technique already documented in Roman times. Latin historians and agronomists wrote about the "Caseus Vestinus" — the cheese of the Vestini, an Italic people who lived in what is now northern Abruzzo, between Penne, Pescara, and the Tirino valley. The pig-rennet technique was probably widespread in other parts of central Italy, but it is only in Farindola — a small village at 530 meters above sea level on the eastern slopes of Gran Sasso — that it has survived without interruption to the present day.
In the Middle Ages and the modern era, Farindola was a significant pastoral center: its sheep herds were substantial, thanks to the vast public pastures of Gran Sasso and Voltigno, and its cheese was traded at the most important local markets — Penne (the historic Vestine city) and Loreto Aprutino — where it was highly prized. Production was a family affair, managed exclusively by the women of the household, the sole keepers of the pig-rennet recipe.
The near-disappearance after World War II
The depopulation of inland Abruzzo in the postwar decades drastically reduced sheep farming. During the 1960s and '70s, with mass emigration to Rome, Milan, Germany, and Switzerland, entire pastoral families abandoned their flocks. Pecorino di Farindola gradually became a product for personal consumption: only a few families still made it for their own use, without any commercial activity. By the 1990s it was on the verge of extinction — very few producers, no organizational structure, no market to speak of.
The Slow Food rescue (2002)
In 2002, the Slow Food Foundation established the Slow Food Presidium for Pecorino di Farindola, initially identifying seven historic producers still active and drawing up a production protocol that codified traditional techniques. The Slow Food recognition proved decisive: it brought national visibility, the attention of high-profile chefs and restaurateurs, and the economic validation that allowed producers to continue their work — and encouraged new generations in some pastoral families to carry on.
Today the Presidium brings together a small number of producers (historically around ten), all working in limited and carefully considered quantities. Pecorino di Farindola is also listed among Italy's Traditional Agri-food Products (PAT) managed by MASAF, but it has not obtained DOP or IGP status — a process that would require significant organizational resources for such a small Presidium.
The nine production municipalities
The Slow Food Presidium protocol restricts the production of Pecorino di Farindola to nine municipalities on the eastern slopes of Gran Sasso:
Province of Pescara (six municipalities)
Farindola — the central municipality, which gives the cheese its name.
Montebello di Bertona
Villa Celiera — also the heartland of the tradition of arrosticini abruzzesi.
Carpineto della Nora
Civitella Casanova
Penne — ancient Vestine city and historic cheese market.
Province of Teramo (three municipalities)
Arsita
Bisenti
Castelli — also renowned for its IGP ceramics.
The entire area lies on the eastern side of the Gran Sasso massif, with pastures stretching in altitude from 400 meters in the foothills to over 1,500 meters in the high-altitude meadows of the National Park. It is a landscape shaped by oak and beech forests, meadows rich in aromatic species, cool summers, and scattered traditional sheepfolds.
Pig rennet: the secret that is unique in the world
Producing porcine rennet is the most delicate and identity-defining step in the entire process. It traditionally takes place in the winter months, coinciding with the slaughter of the family pig — an event tied to the cold, which was essential for the traditional preservation of pork. The women of the family inherited not only the recipe but also the tools (wooden kneading troughs, wicker molds, ceramic jars) and the precise timing.
How pig rennet is made
The process takes about forty days:
Specific parts of the pig's stomach are selected (in particular the section corresponding to the ventriculus), preferably from a young animal of excellent dietary quality.
The parts are cleaned, washed, and dried in a cool place for several days.
They are then steeped in a mixture of salt, vinegar, white wine, and spices (the exact proportions are a family tradition — every producer has her own recipe).
The steeping lasts approximately forty days, in a cool place, with periodic stirring.
At the end, the rennet is ready to be used in cheesemaking during the following seasons. It is stored in its own steeping liquid, in glass or ceramic jars, for months at a time.
The result is a rennet with an intense, complex aroma — spiced and lightly animal — completely unlike the industrial calf rennet (which has a neutral aroma and faster enzymatic action). Pig rennet works more slowly on the milk, allowing for a more structured curd, and continues to contribute to the cheese's aroma throughout aging.
Production: a women's prerogative
One aspect the Slow Food Foundation emphasizes strongly is that the production of Pecorino di Farindola has historically been the exclusive domain of women. It is the women of the family — the wives and daughters of shepherds, but also independent figures who manage their own flocks — who oversee every stage: from milking to cheesemaking, from salting to aging, through to the careful tending of the wheels in the months that follow. The men handle the grazing, shearing, slaughtering, and fieldwork; the cheese is strictly "women's business."
This division of labor — which has ancient roots and appears in many pastoral traditions around the Mediterranean — is still honored today in the Presidium's family farms. The rennet recipes, curd timings, and aging rhythms pass from mother to daughter in a chain of oral transmission that is itself part of the product's cultural value.
Cheesemaking step by step
The milk
Only raw sheep's milk is used, hand-milked from sheep raised free-range for most of the year. Several breeds are permitted, including crossbreeds, as long as they derive from the native Pagliarola Appenninica or from crosses with traditional dairy or meat breeds. The diet is strictly regulated: pasture, hay, straw, corn, barley, wheat, and fava beans — all traditional local feed; industrial feeds and silage are banned.
Only "vertical transhumance" is permitted: the summer stay in the mountain zones of the production area (the high pastures of Gran Sasso), but not horizontal transhumance to the Tavoliere delle Puglie or other regions. The sheep must be raised year-round within the production area, because only in this way does the milk carry the aromas of the indigenous botanical varieties of Gran Sasso into the cheese.
Cheesemaking
The freshly milked milk is heated to 35°C in a copper or steel vat.
Pig rennet is added in a very small quantity (a few drops per liter of milk).
The curd forms in about 30–40 minutes.
The curd is broken with a special tool (spino) until the grains reach the size of a corn kernel.
The curd is removed from the vat and placed in wicker fiscelle, traditional molds that imprint the characteristic parallel ridges on the surface of the cheese — the visual "signature" of Pecorino di Farindola.
The wheels are pressed by hand to encourage whey drainage.
Salting
Within forty-eight hours of cheesemaking, the wheels are dry-salted with coarse salt rubbed onto the surface. No brine is used. The wheels remain salted for 24–48 hours, then are rubbed down to remove excess salt.
Aging in wooden kneading troughs
The wheels are placed to age in old wooden kneading troughs — antique chestnut or walnut pieces of furniture once used for bread-making, today inherited from grandmothers and repurposed for cheese aging. The troughs create an ideal microclimate: constant humidity, natural ventilation, and aromatic exchange with the centuries-old wood.
The minimum aging period under the Slow Food protocol is 3 months, but the finest wheels can mature for over a year. During aging, the rind is periodically rubbed with a mixture of extra-virgin olive oil and vinegar (some producers add tomato juice), which protects against mold, keeps the paste moist inside, and contributes to the aroma. Over time the rind shifts from straw-yellow to saffron-colored, reaching brown tones in very well-aged wheels.
Organoleptic characteristics
Pecorino di Farindola has distinctive sensory characteristics at each stage of aging.
Young (3–4 months)
Soft paste, straw-white in color, slightly grainy when cut, with delicate aromas of fresh milk and hay. Balanced flavor, lightly spicy, already distinctive for the musky notes of the pig rennet. Thin, straw-yellow rind.
Semi-aged (6–9 months)
Drier paste, though still moist, grainy, bright straw-yellow in color. Intense aromas of grass and hay, with light hints of toasted hazelnut and forest floor. Bold, moderately spicy, lingering flavor. Golden-saffron rind.
Aged (over 1 year)
More crumbly, grainy paste, yet still moist thanks to the pig-rennet technique. Deep yellow in color, with visible tyrosine crystals. Complex, musky, balsamic aromas with notes of undergrowth and dried hay. Bold spicy flavor with a very long finish, notes of black pepper and toasted hazelnut. Dark brown rind.
How to enjoy Pecorino di Farindola
On its own, at room temperature
The best way: sliced into shards or small chunks, left to soften for 30 minutes at room temperature, paired with Abruzzese rustic bread and chestnut or acacia honey. The salty-spicy notes of the cheese balance beautifully with the sweetness of honey.
With olive-oil bread
An Abruzzese tradition: rustic bread toasted over embers, drizzled with local extra-virgin olive oil, and topped with a shard of fresh or semi-aged Pecorino di Farindola. It more than holds its own against the better-known tomato bruschetta.
In the kitchen
Semi-aged and aged Pecorino di Farindola lends itself to very specific culinary uses:
Grated over chitarra pasta with castrato ragù (the flagship dish of Teramane cuisine).
Shaved over salads of bitter roots (red radicchio, wild chicory) with walnuts and honey.
Diced into pallotte cacio e ova, traditional Abruzzese meatless fritters.
Melted into rustic legume soups (chickpea and chestnut soup, virtù teramane).
Wine pairings
Fresh and semi-aged Pecorino di Farindola pairs beautifully with young Trebbiano d'Abruzzo or Pecorino DOC (the native white grape variety — not to be confused with the cheese of the same name). The aged version calls for more structured wines: young Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, or mature reds (Montepulciano Riserva, red wines from Loreto Aprutino). For those who enjoy contemplation wines: Abruzzese passiti or vin santo.
How much it costs and where to buy it
Pecorino di Farindola Slow Food Presidium is priced to reflect its artisanal production and limited output:
Young (3 months): €22–28 per kilo.
Semi-aged (6–9 months): €28–35 per kilo.
Aged (over 1 year): €35–50 per kilo.
These prices are higher than those of Sardinian or Tuscan DOP pecorinos, but they are justified by the genuinely artisanal production, the limited output (a few hundred wheels a year per producer), and the complexity of rennet preparation.
Where to buy
Directly from the Slow Food producers in Farindola and the Presidium municipalities. There are only a few, recognizable by the Slow Food logo on the packaging, and they often welcome visitors for on-farm demonstrations and tastings. An updated list is available on the Slow Food Foundation website (under "Presidi").
Markets in Farindola, Penne, Loreto Aprutino and the Presidium municipalities — still today the historic trading grounds where you can find the product fresh, directly from producers.
Specialty food shops across Abruzzo (Pescara, Teramo, L'Aquila) and throughout Italy, especially in traditional-product chains and high-end delicatessens.
Online: numerous Italian e-commerce stores ship Pecorino di Farindola throughout Italy with refrigerated delivery. Always check for the Slow Food Presidium label.
Be wary of generic products labeled "pecorino abruzzese" or "pecorino del Gran Sasso" sold at very low prices: they carry no legal protection and almost certainly do not use pig rennet.
Frequently asked questions
Is Pecorino di Farindola DOP?
No. It has been a Slow Food Presidium since 2002 and is listed as an Italian PAT (Traditional Agri-food Product). It has not obtained DOP or IGP status, partly because the Presidium is small and the DOP process would require significant organizational resources. The Slow Food designation, however, sets a rigorous production protocol and guarantees traceability.
Why is pig rennet used instead of calf rennet?
The precise historical answer has been lost over the centuries, but there are two leading theories. The pragmatic one: in a pastoral society that raised many sheep but also pigs slaughtered in winter, it was rational to use porcine offal for rennet, keeping calves for other purposes. The Roman-tradition one: the Vestini were already producing the Caseus Vestinus with pig rennet in ancient times; the technique survived as a local identity marker. Both explanations have likely played a role.
Can it be eaten by people who don't eat pork?
Honestly, no. Pecorino di Farindola contains rennet derived from pigs: for people who avoid pork for religious reasons (Muslims, observant Jews) or ethical ones, it should be ruled out. For vegetarians in general, it is worth noting that all "real" pecorinos use animal rennet (calf or, in this case, pig); "pecorinos" made with vegetable rennet (microbial cultures, thistle rennet) do exist, but they are not traditional products and are not Pecorino di Farindola.
How long does a whole wheel last?
A whole wheel, properly vacuum-sealed or wrapped in parchment paper, keeps in the refrigerator (lower shelf, at 4–8°C) for several months. A young wheel lasts 2–3 months; a semi-aged or aged one can last 6–8 months. Once cut, it should be consumed within 3–4 weeks, always well wrapped.
How do you tell it apart from a Sardinian or Tuscan pecorino?
Three indicators. Label: the real Pecorino di Farindola carries the Slow Food Presidium logo and the explicit designation "Pecorino di Farindola" (with a capital "F"). Rind: characteristic parallel ridges left by the wicker fiscelle, a color that shifts from straw-yellow to brown with aging, and visible signs of the oil-and-vinegar rubbing. Paste: grainy but always moist (never dry like Pecorino Romano or aged Sardo), turning yellow with time, with a distinctively musky aroma.
Can I visit a producer?
Yes, many Presidium producers welcome visitors by appointment, especially in spring and summer. Typical visits include: an explanation of pig rennet, a cheesemaking demonstration, a tour of the wooden aging troughs, and a tasting of wheels at different stages of aging, paired with bread, oil, and local wines. Several producers also run agriturismo accommodations with the option to stay overnight and enjoy meals.
Does Pecorino di Farindola work for cooking?
Yes, but with care. The young and semi-aged versions melt well in warm dishes (soups, pasta, pallotte cacio e ova). The aged version is best enjoyed raw, as cooking tends to lose some of the complex aromas that set it apart. For grating over pasta or gnocchi, use a semi-aged wheel of 6–9 months: it grates well and holds its flavor.
Can I find it in Rome or Milan?
Yes, in select delicatessens (Roscioli in Rome, Peck in Milan, Eataly, some Slow Food shops). Prices in urban centers are slightly higher than in Abruzzo. Always check for the Slow Food label on the packaging.
Discover Pecorino with Stravagando
Pecorino di Farindola is one of those products you can only truly understand by going to the places where it is made: visiting a small family farm in Farindola or Penne, seeing the ancient wooden troughs, breathing in the aroma of pig rennet at work, tasting a shard of aged cheese beside the fire of a mountain kitchen. It is a deeply Abruzzese experience, far removed from standardized food tourism.
Stravagando is the Italian marketplace for experiences exactly like these: tours of historic 'arrosticini' kitchens, meat-cutting demos with traditional butchers, pairings with local wineries, participation in traditional sagre, led by carefully selected local hosts. We're putting together our Abruzzo catalogue right now— included — and in the coming months you'll be able to book directly here.
In the meantime, if you are butchers, specialty restaurateurs, sagra organizers, or Abruzzo producers and want to join our circle, write to us: we're looking for you.
And if you're a traveler, subscribe to the Stravagando newsletter: we'll let you know as soon as the first experiences are bookable online — with transparent pricing, certified hosts, and an editorial curation we promise feels different from the big generalist marketplaces.
For further reading: the guide to traditional products of Abruzzo; Zafferano dell'Aquila DOP; arrosticini abruzzesi (Villa Celiera, a Presidium municipality, is also the historic home of the arrosticino); and the guide to Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga, the production area.
Happy travels.