Monte Amaro: trekking to the second highest peak in the Apennines
2,793 meters on the Majella: routes, Bivacco Pelino, the Murelle amphitheater, and the classic ascent from Campo di Giove
There are two Apennine mountains that every Italian hiker dreams of climbing at least once. One is the Corno Grande of the Gran Sasso (2,912 m). The other is Monte Amaro of the Majella, at 2,793 meters above sea level: the second highest peak in the Apennines, the highest summit of the Majella massif — a mountain that is at once a lunar landscape, an endless high-altitude ridge, the realm of the Apennine chamois, and a historic stage for post-unification brigandage.
Climbing Monte Amaro is no walk in the park. It is a trekking experience of 8–10 hours in total, with elevation gains ranging from 1,219 to 1,800 meters depending on the route, in a high-altitude environment constantly exposed to the sun and with scarce water throughout. It is reserved for experienced and physically fit hikers, to be attempted only in the summer months (June–September), with proper gear and up-to-date weather information. Yet it is also, in many people's view, the most beautiful trek in central Italy: landscapes reminiscent of Tibet, panoramas stretching from the Adriatic to the Tyrrhenian, encounters with unique wildlife, and at the summit a small fire-red dome-shaped bivouac that has become an icon of Italian mountaineering.
In this guide we tell you everything you need to know to climb Monte Amaro: the four routes, the real difficulty, the gear, the Bivacco Pelino, the Tavola dei Briganti, and why this mountain has a story that goes far beyond alpinism.
What is Monte Amaro
Monte Amaro is the main summit of the Majella massif, located in the heart of the Majella National Park. At 2,793 meters above sea level, it is the second highest peak in the entire Apennine chain, surpassed only by the Corno Grande of the Gran Sasso d'Italia (2,912 m, roughly 50 km to the north as the crow flies). It is also, after Etna in Sicily, the third highest peak in central-southern Italy.
Geographically, Amaro is the highest point of a long high-altitude ridge that runs through the massif from north to south, staying almost consistently above 2,500 meters. 55% of the Majella National Park lies above 2,000 meters — a density of high-altitude terrain unique in the Apennines.
The summit is not a sharp alpine pyramid. It is a wide detrital plateau, like an enormous gravelly hill, with a welded iron summit cross — and just a little below it — the distinctive Bivacco Pelino in its dome shape, fire-red in color, resembling a lunar module. It is an "elsewhere" landscape: those who arrive here for the first time feel more like they are in Mongolia than in central Italy.
The ascent: four possible routes
There are four main itineraries for reaching the summit of Monte Amaro, each with different characteristics and difficulty levels. All require good physical fitness, hiking experience, and proper equipment.
1. From Rifugio Bruno Pomilio (the classic route) — the most straightforward
The most popular itinerary and — relatively speaking — the most "accessible" of the four. Starting point: Rifugio Bruno Pomilio (1,895 m, listed as 1,980 m in some sources), near the Blockhaus and the Passolanciano-Maielletta ski area.
Total elevation gain: +1,219 m uphill (some sources indicate up to 1,500 m for the full round-trip version including ups and downs)
Distance: 12–13 km one way, 23–26 km round trip
Duration: 5–6 hours one way, 10–12 hours round trip in a single day
Difficulty: E+ / EE (Advanced Hiking)
Trail: "P" — Sentiero del Parco (north-south ridge of the Majella)
Main stages
Rifugio Pomilio (1,895 m). Follow the road closed to traffic for about 2 km to the Blockhaus square (2,070 m), home to the votive altar of the Madonna del Blockhaus.
Monte Cavallo (2,171 m). Ridge trail through fragrant mugo pines and flat stretches.
Tavola dei Briganti (~2,118 m). Rocky outcrop with historical inscriptions (see dedicated section below).
Sella Acquaviva (2,100 m). Natural spring — the last reliable water source.
Monte Focalone (2,676 m). Steep climb along the north ridge, with panoramic views over the Murelle Amphitheater.
Bivacco Fusco (2,455 m). Small yellow metal bivouac, optional panoramic detour.
Anfiteatro delle Murelle. Enormous circular sinkhole, glacial landscape.
I Tre Portoni. Series of ups and downs between Cima Pomilio, Monte Rotondo, and Cima Tre Portoni.
Wide north ridge of Monte Amaro — the final ramp to the summit.
Summit of Monte Amaro (2,793 m) and Bivacco Pelino.
2. From Passo San Leonardo (the Standard Route)
The shortest route in kilometers, but also the steepest and most demanding for those attempting it in a single day. Starts from Passo San Leonardo, in the valley between the Morrone and the Majella.
Elevation gain: approximately +1,774 m uphill
Difficulty: EE+ — experienced hikers only
Challenges: consistently steep gradient, full sun exposure, rocky and at times slippery trail, extreme water scarcity
Evocative place names: the route passes through the Valle della Femmina Morta, Monte Macellaro, and the Canyon della Sfischia
3. From the Gole di Fara San Martino — the longest
An itinerary for true specialists. Starts from the borgo of Fara San Martino, famous for its pasta production (it is home to pasta manufacturers exported worldwide), and crosses the eastern face of the Majella.
Stages: Gole di Fara San Martino (spectacular canyon), Monte Macellaro, Cima di Tavola Rotonda (2,403 m), Canyon della Sfischia, Fondo di Femmina Morta (arid plateau at 2,500 m), Grotta Canosa (approx. 2,600 m)
Difficulty: the hardest and longest of the four routes
A two-day split with an overnight stay at Bivacco Pelino on the summit is strongly recommended
4. From Caramanico Terme — the most demanding for total elevation gain
Starting from Caramanico Terme (650 m), you pass through the Gole dell'Orfento and ascend via the western face: Ponte della Pietra, an extremely steep beech forest (gradients up to 60%), then the Ciocca ridge, Monte Rapina, Pescofalcone, Monte Tre Portoni, and finally Monte Amaro.
Total elevation gain: approximately +2,500 m of cumulative ascent
Minimum 2–3 days with an intermediate overnight stay
A lightly-traveled trail through lush vegetation, difficult to follow in some sections
Intermediate shelter: Rifugio Paolo Barrasso (equipped with benches, a table and a fireplace)
Bivacco Pelino: the icon of the Majella
On the summit of Monte Amaro, just a few meters below the trigonometric point, stands the Bivacco Mario Pelino — one of the most famous and photographed high-altitude shelters in the Italian Apennines.
History
The Bivacco Pelino was built in 1981 by the CAI section of Sulmona. It has a geodesic dome shape, made up of triangular panels of metal painted fire-red, with small porthole windows that give it the look of a lunar module. It is always open, free to use, and intended for emergency shelter.
Before the Pelino, other shelters stood on the same summit, of which some ruins remain:
Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II: built in stone in 1890 by the CAI section of Rome, destroyed by an aerial bombing in 1944.
Bivacco Falco Maiorano: a metal bivouac built in 1965 by the CAI section of Chieti, destroyed by a blizzard in 1974.
The 1981 Pelino has withstood forty years of high-altitude storms thanks to its dome shape, which is far more resistant to wind than flat-walled shelters.
Practical details
10 sleeping spots (wooden bunks with basic mattress pads)
Always open, free of charge, unstaffed
No services: no running water, no bathroom, no heating, no kitchen
You must bring: a winter-rated sleeping bag (even in summer), water (at least 2–3 liters per person), food for dinner and breakfast, a camp stove (no open flames), a headlamp
Waste: everything you carry up, you carry back down
How to reserve
There is no formal reservation system (it is an emergency bivouac), but it is advisable to notify the CAI in Sulmona (or alternatively the CAI in Guardiagrele or the Park Authority) to find out whether other hikers have already planned to stay. On summer weekends the 10 spots fill up fast: anyone arriving as the eleventh person risks sleeping on the floor or outside.
Rifugio Manzini: the alternative
About 30 meters from Bivacco Pelino, reachable with a 30-minute gentle downhill walk (elevation ~2,600 m), you will find Rifugio Manzini: a more sheltered, more spacious option, with running water, a fireplace, and a few small comforts. Less panoramic than the Pelino but more comfortable. The ideal solution if the Pelino is full.
The experience on the summit
Spending the night at the Pelino is an unforgettable experience. Red sunsets setting the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine ridges ablaze, a star-filled sky untouched by light pollution, a spectacular dawn with the first rays illuminating the summit while the valley below remains in darkness. This is one of the reasons people make this trek: not just to reach the top, but to sleep on top.
The Tavola dei Briganti: the forgotten history
Along the classic trail from Rifugio Pomilio, about 45 minutes past the Blockhaus, you come across one of the most evocative elements of the entire trek: the Tavola dei Briganti, near Monte Cavallo at around 2,118 meters in elevation.
It is a limestone rocky outcrop on which, over the centuries — and especially during the great era of post-unification brigandage (1861–1870) — shepherds, travelers, and brigands carved inscriptions: names, dates, phrases, political invectives, simple marks of presence. Some inscriptions remain perfectly legible today.
Historical context: brigandage in Abruzzo
After the Unification of Italy in 1861, Abruzzo — like the entire South — was swept by a resistance movement against the new Kingdom known as "brigandage". It was a mixture of:
Bourbon loyalism: political resistance to the Savoyard government by those who had remained loyal to the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.
Social desperation: peasants crushed by poverty, by the new Kingdom's taxes, and by mandatory military conscription.
Pure banditry: those who had committed crimes and sought refuge in the inaccessible mountains.
The mule tracks crossing the Majella — the shortest communication routes between the villages of the Adriatic coast and those of the interior — were brigand territory. To counter them, first the Bourbons and then the Kingdom of Italy built observation forts. On Monte Blockhaus, at 2,070 m, a wooden fort was erected (hence the German name "Blockhaus" = "log house"), staffed by Austrian mercenaries in the service of the House of Savoy, specialists in anti-brigandage suppression. The ruins of the fort are still visible today.
The inscriptions
The inscriptions on the Tavola dei Briganti tell fragments of lives. Some are from shepherds documenting their work (for example: "Giovanni Venditti di Capracotta, di Raffaele sono stato pastore, dal 1893 sino al 1899"). Others were left by brigands who carved names and dates during long periods of living in the mountains.
It is a kind of open-air museum, fragile and precious: admire it, photograph it, but do not carve anything new (strictly prohibited by the Park).
When to go (and when NOT to go)
Recommended season: June–September
Monte Amaro is reasonably safe to access from mid-June to mid-September. Before and after, conditions become increasingly challenging due to:
Residual snow: above 2,000 m until June, and sometimes into July in cold years.
Fog: sudden and very dense, it can reduce visibility to just a few meters.
High-altitude wind: even in summer, gusts up to 80–100 km/h above 2,500 m.
Temperatures: at 2,793 m, even at the height of summer, nighttime temperatures can drop below freezing.
Optimal window
Late July through early September: the most stable conditions, no snow, manageable temperatures, long days. Ideal month: August, with the caveat of setting out at dawn to avoid frequent afternoon thunderstorms.
When NOT to go
Winter (December–April): experienced mountaineers only, with full winter gear (crampons, ice axe, technical clothing). A winter ascent is a true mountaineering undertaking, not a trek.
May and the first half of June: too many snowfields, trails difficult to follow.
Summer afternoons: risk of thunderstorms and lightning — absolutely to be avoided.
When the forecast looks unstable: postpone. The Majella isn't going anywhere.
Essential gear
Tackling Monte Amaro requires high-altitude hiking gear:
Clothing
High hiking boots with a good Vibram sole and solid ankle support.
Technical hiking socks (no cotton).
Technical long pants (no jeans).
Moisture-wicking T-shirt.
Fleece or softshell.
Waterproof windbreaker.
Sun hat and category 3–4 sunglasses (high-altitude UV radiation is intense).
Buff or light scarf for the wind.
Light gloves (even in summer).
Pack and accessories
25–35 liter pack (day hike), 40–50 liters (if overnight at the bivouac).
Trekking poles: strongly recommended — they reduce strain on your knees and help on the scree.
Water: at least 2–3 liters per person. Water sources along the route are not guaranteed year-round.
High-energy food: bars, dried fruit, hearty sandwiches, fresh fruit.
High-SPF sunscreen (even under overcast skies).
Headlamp (darkness can fall sooner than expected).
Topographic map (Carta Escursionistica Parco Nazionale della Majella, scale 1:25,000, DREAm editions).
GPS app: Wikiloc, Komoot, IGN or equivalent with offline-downloadable tracks.
Mobile phone: reception is patchy — don't rely on it alone.
First aid kit: bandages, gauze, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, emergency thermal blanket.
For an overnight stay at Bivacco Pelino
Winter-rated sleeping bag (nighttime temperatures can drop below zero even in midsummer).
Insulating sleeping pad (the bivouac bunks are basic).
Gas camp stove (no open flames).
Extra water for dinner and breakfast: to reiterate, there is no running water at the bivouac.
Waste bags: everything you bring up, you take back down.
Water sources along the route
One of the key challenges of trekking to Monte Amaro is the scarcity of water. Knowing the supply points is essential:
Fonte Acquaviva near Sella Acquaviva and the Tavola dei Briganti (2,100 m). Almost always active in summer.
Fonte Ghiacciata at 2,370 m, installed in 2013 about 10 minutes from Bivacco Fusco. Active in summer.
Beyond these points, all the way to the summit: NO water available.
Always check with the CAI in Sulmona or the Park Visitor Center whether the springs are running before you set out. In drought years they may be dry.
Wildlife and flora you will encounter
Apennine chamois
The true king of Monte Amaro is the Apennine chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica ornata) — a subspecies endemic to the central Apennines, distinct from the Alpine chamois. It is smaller and has more curved horns than its Alpine cousin. Successfully reintroduced into the Park from the 1990s onward, it now numbers several hundred individuals. Sightings are frequent: especially on Monte Focalone, at I Tre Portoni, and near Bivacco Fusco. You spot them at a distance, in herds of 5–15. They are recognizable by their chocolate-brown summer coat, their slightly hooked horns, and their agile movement across the rocks.
Other wildlife
Golden eagle: can be spotted in flight along the rocky cliffs.
Apennine wolf: present at lower elevations, rarely sighted.
Rock partridge: a small high-altitude game bird.
Alpine accentor, brambling, red-billed chough, wallcreeper.
Marmot: found only in certain areas.
High-altitude flora
Among the most precious species you may encounter:
Apennine edelweiss (Leontopodium nivale subsp. nivale): endemic to the central Apennines.
Soldanella minima samnitica: one of the 5 exclusive endemics of the Majella.
Alpine poppy.
Gentians, saxifrages, alpine primroses.
Mugo pines (Pinus mugo): prostrate pine woodland that characterizes the trail between 1,700 and 2,000 m.
All flora is protected: collecting flowers, seeds, or any plant material is prohibited.
Safety: the real risks
Climbing Monte Amaro is statistically safe for those who follow the rules, but it is not without dangers. The main hazards:
Afternoon thunderstorms: the most serious danger. In summer, from 1:00–2:00 PM onward, violent storms with lightning can develop along the ridge. Set out at dawn and reach the summit by noon. If you see a storm forming, descend immediately.
Sudden fog: in just a few minutes, visibility can drop to 10 meters. On the P trail it is easy to get lost if you are not experienced.
Dehydration and heat stroke: high-altitude sun is deceptive — the cool air masks the radiation. Drink plenty, always.
Falls on scree: the section between Focalone and Tre Portoni crosses unstable boulder fields. Trekking poles recommended.
Nighttime hypothermia: even in August, temperatures at Bivacco Pelino can fall below zero at night.
Altitude sickness: at 2,793 m this is not a classic altitude sickness elevation, but those arriving from sea level (0 m) may feel symptoms: headache, nausea, fatigue. Ascend gradually.
Trail markings are not always clear: in some sections signage is sparse. Always carry a map and GPS.
In case of emergency
European emergency number: 112. In Abruzzo the Mountain and Cave Rescue Service (CNSAS) is active.
Always tell someone in the valley your planned itinerary, your expected return time, and the shelter contacts if you are spending the night. Never go alone if it is your first time.
How to reach Rifugio Pomilio (the classic starting point)
By car
From Pescara or Rome: take the A25 Pescara-Roma motorway, exit at Alanno-Scafa. Follow signs for Lettomanoppello, then climb toward Passo Lanciano and Majelletta. From the pass, turn right toward the Blockhaus / Majelletta. A scenic road climbs all the way to Rifugio Bruno Pomilio (18.9 km from Passo Lanciano). Free parking available.
Important: the last stretch of road beyond the Pomilio (toward the Blockhaus square) is closed to motor vehicles since the Park was established. It can only be accessed on foot.
Public transportation
There are no bus lines serving Rifugio Pomilio directly. The most practical solution is to travel to Pescara or Sulmona by train, then rent a car. Some operators organize shuttle services for hikers on summer weekends.
With a guide or on your own?
With a certified hiking guide (recommended for beginners)
Many certified environmental hiking guides based in the Majella organize ascents of Monte Amaro during the summer months. Typical costs: €50–90 per person for groups of 4–10 hikers. This includes certified accompaniment, safety, local knowledge, and historical and naturalistic interpretation. For first-timers, this is the wisest choice.
On your own (for experienced hikers)
Possible, but it requires:
Solid experience in high-altitude hiking.
Map-reading skills and GPS proficiency.
Knowledge of mountain weather and typical risks.
Complete and appropriate gear.
Good physical condition (having already completed treks of 8+ hours with similar elevation gains).
If one or more of these conditions is missing, do not go alone.
Frequently asked questions
How hard is it, really?
There is no technical difficulty here (no climbing sections, no vertiginous exposure), but it is a test of physical and mental endurance. 23–26 km round trip, 1,500 m of elevation gain, 10+ hours of walking in sun, wind, and scree. If you have never done anything similar, build up gradually with progressive outings in the months beforehand.
Can I do it in a day, or do I have to overnight?
A single-day ascent is possible for fit hikers. Overnighting at the Pelino breaks up the exertion and gifts you an emotionally unforgettable experience (sunset, dawn, starry sky). For a first attempt, we recommend the two-day formula with a night at the bivouac.
Can children do it?
The full Monte Amaro trek is not suitable for children under 14–15 years old. For families with younger children, we suggest stopping at the Tavola dei Briganti or the Bivacco Fusco (Murelle Amphitheater): beautiful 2–3 hour hikes with spectacular views, without the grueling push to the summit.
How many people actually make it to the top?
Unofficial statistics suggest that 60–70% of those who set out actually reach the summit. Many stop at Bivacco Fusco or Monte Focalone, take stock of how much effort remains, and wisely decide to turn back. That is not failure: the Majella offers spectacular panoramas well before the summit.
Can you do it in winter?
Only with full mountaineering gear (crampons, ice axe, helmet), winter alpinism experience, and ideally with a certified mountain guide. Winter conditions on the Majella are serious: heavy snow, ice, possible avalanches, temperatures down to -25°C at the summit. This is not a hike — it is a climb.
Can you see the sea?
Yes! From the summit of Monte Amaro, on clear days you can plainly see the Adriatic to the east, and sometimes — in exceptional conditions — you can make out the Tyrrhenian to the west, between the valleys of the Sangro and the Liri. It is one of the few places in Italy where you can see both seas at the same time.
Can I bring my dog?
Majella National Park allows dogs on a leash on the trails (unlike the Strict Zone A of the Valle dell'Orfento). However, consider whether your dog can actually handle 10+ hours of walking on rocky terrain: often they cannot — they tire badly and injure their paws on the rocks. For most dogs, this trek is not recommended.
How much does it cost?
Climbing Monte Amaro is completely free (no entrance fees, no charges, no paid parking). Costs are limited to your gear, transportation, an optional guide, and any meals at Rifugio Pomilio (open in summer).
Can you bag other summits on the same day?
Yes. The P trail passes over several peaks above 2,500 m: those in good shape and with time to spare can add Monte Focalone (2,676 m), Cima delle Murelle (2,598 m), and Monte Acquaviva (2,737 m). These are significant additions in both time and effort, however.
Discover Monte Amaro with Stravagando
Monte Amaro is the kind of mountain that calls to you just once. Those who climb it come back. To tackle it the right way — safely, knowing the history it carries, savoring the panoramas and the wildlife and botanical encounters it holds in store — the best thing you can do is entrust yourself to those who know it: certified environmental hiking guides of the Majella, rifugio managers, experienced local mountaineers. The Majella is a serious mountain. The Abruzzesi respect it. So should you.
Stravagando is the Italian marketplace for experiences exactly like these: guided treks, sunset hikes, snowshoeing, photo workshops, themed tours, stays in old villages, led by carefully selected local hosts. We're putting together our Abruzzo catalogue right now— included — and in the coming months you'll be able to book directly here.
In the meantime, if you are hosts, environmental guides, or local tour operators and want to join our circle, write to us: we're looking for you.
And if you're a traveler, subscribe to the Stravagando newsletter: we'll let you know as soon as the first experiences are bookable online — with transparent pricing, certified hosts, and an editorial curation we promise feels different from the big generalist marketplaces.
Further reading: the article on Majella National Park and the UNESCO Geopark; the Celestinian hermitages of the Majella; Valle dell'Orfento and Caramanico Terme; Pacentro (borgo on the Morrone at the foot of the Monte Amaro Standard Route); Gole di Fara San Martino and the Grotta del Cavallone, Pescocostanzo, and Palena.
Happy travels.