Christmas Markets in Sulmona and Pescocostanzo: the Two Most Enchanting Borghi of the Apennines

The Christmas markets of Sulmona and Pescocostanzo are the two most magical appointments in the Abruzzese Apennines: two jewels of history and architecture that in December transform into fairytale Christmas settings. Sulmona, the city of Ovid and the celebrated confetti, hosts markets from December 1 through January 6 across its extraordinary medieval-Renaissance historic center, from Piazza XX Settembre to Corso Ovidio. Pescocostanzo, one of the Borghi più Belli d'Italia (Italy's Most Beautiful Villages), offers a "diffuse" market winding through the lanes of its late-Renaissance center during the weekends of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and Christmas. Both borghi are reachable via the Transiberiana d'Italia, the historic train that departs from Sulmona. A guide to the two most characterful markets of the Alto Sangro and the Valle Peligna.

Sulmona: the City of Ovid Dressed for Christmas

Sulmona, in the province of L'Aquila at around 400 m above sea level, is one of the most fascinating art cities in Abruzzo:

• Birthplace of Publius Ovidius Naso (43 BC – 17 AD), the great Latin poet

• Capital of confetti since the 15th century (an industry active since the Middle Ages)

• Medieval historic center with historic palaces and churches

• Train station: the main hub of the Transiberiana d'Italia

• Home of the Giostra Cavalleresca: a historic pageant held every July

• Heart of the Valle Peligna within the Majella National Park

Typical Dates for Sulmona's Markets

The markets are traditionally held from December 1 through January 6, with extended hours on weekends and holidays. Check the exact dates on the Sulmona Municipality website.

Market Areas

Piazza Garibaldi

The largest square in the historic center (one of the biggest medieval squares in Italy), Piazza Garibaldi dominates Sulmona and is the beating heart of the markets:

• Wooden chalets with local crafts

• Food stalls with traditional sweets and mulled wine

• Medieval aqueduct: the imposing Swabian aqueduct of 1256 forms a breathtaking backdrop

• Saturday market: historically overlapping with the Christmas markets

Corso Ovidio

The main thoroughfare of the historic center, named after the Latin poet:

• Historic shops with dressed-up window displays

• Historic confetti makers: Pelino (since 1783) and Rapone (since 1850)

• Palazzo Annunziata: a late-Gothic masterpiece

• Market stalls with gifts and crafts

Piazza XX Settembre

The hub of New Year's Eve celebrations and the city's symbolic square:

• Statue of Ovid

• Wooden chalets with a Christmas theme

• New Year's Eve in the square: festivities from 11 PM to 3 AM with DJ sets

Centro Salesiano and Other Churches

• Exhibition of artistic nativity scenes: the Abruzzese presepio tradition

• Cathedral of San Panfilo: solemn Christmas Mass

• Santa Maria della Tomba: guided visits

Sulmona's Confetti: the Gift par Excellence

Sulmona's confetti are the city's most famous culinary specialty. A confectionery tradition dating back to the 15th century (with documented traces reaching into the Middle Ages). Specialties include:

• Almond confetti: the classic version, made with Avola almonds

• Flower-shaped decorative confetti: the "fiore di Sulmona," a distinctive arrangement of confetti shaped into floral bouquets

• Christmas confetti: special festive versions (chocolate, hazelnut, pistachio)

• New Year's confetti: "lucky" gift packages

• Flavored confetti: lemon, strawberry, anise

Confetti Makers Worth Visiting

• Pelino: since 1783, one of Italy's oldest confetti factories. Museum of Confetti open to visitors

• Rapone: since 1850, a family tradition

• Mario Pelino

• D'Alessandro

All open during the markets with direct sales.

Pescocostanzo: the Late-Renaissance Borgo

Pescocostanzo, perched at 1,395 m above sea level on the edge of the Altopiano delle Cinque Miglia, is one of the Borghi più Belli d'Italia. The borgo, which flourished between the 15th and 18th centuries, preserves a late-Renaissance historic center of rare beauty:

• Basilica of Santa Maria del Colle: an architectural masterpiece

• Palazzo Comunale: late-Renaissance

• Palazzo Fanzago: the work of the great Baroque architect

• Narrow cobblestone lanes lined with noble palaces

• Artisan traditions: wrought iron, goldsmithing, bobbin lace

• Close to the Vallefura ski resort (5 km)

Typical Dates for Pescocostanzo's Markets

The markets in Pescocostanzo are typically concentrated on weekends, in particular:

• Feast of the Immaculate Conception weekend (December 6–10)

• Pre-Christmas (December 22–24)

• New Year's period (December 28 – January 6)

Check the Pescocostanzo Municipality website for exact dates.

The "Diffuse Market"

Unlike L'Aquila or Sulmona, where stalls concentrate in specific squares, Pescocostanzo organizes a "diffuse market":

• Stalls scattered through the center's lanes: beneath arches, along alleyways, beside historic palaces

• Intimate atmosphere: fewer crowds, more magic

• Artisan workshops open: wrought iron, goldsmithing, woodworking

• Visit to the Basilica of Santa Maria del Colle: open during the festive season

• Local cuisine in the borgo's restaurants

Pescocostanzo's Craftsmanship: 4 Specialties

1. Wrought iron: lamps, railings, decorative objects. A tradition documented since the 16th century. Historic workshops still active in the borgo

2. Goldsmithing: traditional jewelry with local motifs, rings, earrings, pendants

3. Bobbin lace (merletto a tombolo): a women's tradition, a patient craft that produces scarves, bedspreads, and sacred vestments. Permanent exhibition at the Museo del Tombolo

4. Woodworking: chests, rustic furniture, decorative objects

The Transiberiana d'Italia for the Markets

The most evocative way to visit Sulmona and Pescocostanzo at Christmas is aboard the Transiberiana d'Italia, the historic Sulmona–Carpinone railway:

• Departure from Sulmona, platform 1

• 1930s "Centoporte" carriages with wooden benches

• Stop at Pescocostanzo: bus from the station to the borgo (5 km)

• Stops at Roccaraso, Castel di Sangro, Campo di Giove on parallel itineraries

• Steam locomotive on select special runs

• Season: traditionally from late November through January 6

A Typical "Market Train" Itinerary

For a combined day out:

1. 9:00 AM: departure from Sulmona (quick visit to the center)

2. 10:30 AM: arrival in Roccaraso, markets along Via Roma

3. 1:00 PM: transfer (by bus) to Pescocostanzo, lunch in the borgo

4. 3:00 PM: visit to the diffuse market of Pescocostanzo

5. 5:00 PM: return to Roccaraso and train back to Sulmona

6. 7:00–8:00 PM: dinner in Sulmona and evening market stroll

What to Buy at the Two Markets

In Sulmona

• Sulmona confetti in all varieties (the top specialty)

• Confetti flowers: decorative arrangements

• Sulmona red garlic (Slow Food Presidium)

• White onion from Fara Filiorum Petri

• Aurum liqueur: the historic orange liqueur from Pescara, also sold in Sulmona

• Pupi di zucchero (sugar figurines)

• Valle Peligna wines

In Pescocostanzo

• Handcrafted wrought iron: lamps, decorative pieces

• Traditional jewelry in silver and gold

• Bobbin lace (merletti a tombolo): bedspreads, scarves

• Wooden objects: chests, bowls, boards

• Maiella cheeses: pecorino, ricotta

• Local cured meats

• Artisan liqueurs: Genziana, Centerba

Where to Eat

In Sulmona

Sulmona's cuisine is rich in tradition:

• Maccheroni alla chitarra with lamb ragù

• Sagne e fagioli (pasta and bean soup)

• Agnello cacio e ova (lamb with cheese and eggs)

• Arrosticini (grilled lamb skewers)

• Caggionetti (traditional pastries filled with chestnuts or grape jam)

• Artisan confetti as dessert

Recommended restaurants in the center: near Piazza Garibaldi and along Corso Ovidio.

In Pescocostanzo

Hearty mountain cuisine:

• Mixed roasts of lamb, mutton, and kid goat

• Polenta rognosa

• Pasta alla mugnaia

• Local sausages and cheeses

• Apple strudel (a Nordic specialty embraced at altitude)

How to Get There

To Sulmona

• By car: A25 Pescara–Rome motorway, exit Sulmona-Pratola. 90 km from Rome (1h30), 75 km from Pescara (1h)

• By train: Sulmona FS station is well connected from Rome, Pescara, and L'Aquila

• By bus: TUA lines from L'Aquila, Pescara, and Rome

To Pescocostanzo

• By car: A25 to Sulmona, then SS17 to Pescocostanzo. 130 km from Rome (2h), 110 km from Naples (1h45)

• By train + bus: train to Sulmona, then bus to Pescocostanzo (40 min)

• Transiberiana d'Italia: Pescocostanzo station is not in the center; shuttle buses run on market days

Where to Stay

In Sulmona

• Historic hotels in the center

• B&Bs in restored medieval palaces

• Country houses in the surrounding area (Villa Giovina in Bagnaturo, for example)

In Pescocostanzo

• Historic hotels in the borgo (limited availability)

• Characterful B&Bs and guesthouses

• Country houses with views over the plateau

• Roccaraso (10 km): an option with more availability if you can't find a room

Book 2–3 months ahead for Advent weekends, 4–5 months ahead for New Year's Eve.

Practical Tips

• Dress warmly: Pescocostanzo sits at 1,395 m, often below freezing, with wind

• Snow chains: compulsory on board from November 15

• Parking: in central Sulmona, a ZTL (restricted traffic zone) applies to the historic center. In Pescocostanzo: parking on the outskirts of the borgo

• Lunch: book ahead on weekends, especially in Pescocostanzo (small restaurants with limited capacity)

• New Year's Eve: gala dinners in both borghi — reserve 3–4 months in advance

Combined Itineraries

2-Day Weekend

• Day 1: arrive in Sulmona, visit confetti makers, lunch, markets in Piazza Garibaldi and Corso Ovidio, dinner, overnight stay

• Day 2: transfer to Pescocostanzo, visit the Basilica of Santa Maria del Colle, diffuse market, lunch, optional visit to Roccaraso, return home

3 Days with the Transiberiana

• Day 1: arrive in Sulmona, explore the markets

• Day 2: Transiberiana d'Italia with stops at Roccaraso and Pescocostanzo

• Day 3: visit Castel di Sangro or Scanno, head home

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Explore further: Christmas Markets in Abruzzo, Christmas Markets in L'Aquila, Living Nativity Scenes, Living Nativity Scene of Rivisondoli.

For Sulmona and the Alto Sangro: Sulmona travel guide, Roccaraso, Scanno, White Truffle of Castel di Sangro.

Enjoy your journey.