Santo Stefano di Sessanio: what to see, Sextantio, and where to stay in the medieval borgo of Gran Sasso

Santo Stefano di Sessanio is one of those borghi that seem to have survived almost by accident. At 1,250 meters above sea level, beneath the vast plain of Campo Imperatore, in the heart of the Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga National Park, its white limestone houses climb over one another up to the cylindrical tower that has dominated the horizon for seven centuries. It is one of the Borghi più belli d'Italia, has served as the set for international films, is home to a Slow Food Presidium lentil, and is the place where an Italian-Swedish entrepreneur literally saved an entire village by turning it into Italy's most celebrated albergo diffuso.

And yet, despite all of this, Santo Stefano remains a small, quiet borgo — one of narrow alleyways and vaulted archways that invite you to walk slowly. In this guide, we tell you what to see, what to eat and what to do in Santo Stefano di Sessanio, where to stay (including the unique experience of Sextantio), how to get there, and why it's worth pairing your visit with a trip to Rocca Calascio, just ten minutes away by car.

Why Santo Stefano di Sessanio deserves a visit (and maybe two nights)

The magic of Santo Stefano reveals itself the moment you pass through the Porta Medicea and step inside the borgo: the paving changes underfoot, the sounds of the modern world fade away, and for a brief instant you have the distinct feeling of having slipped into a fold of the fifteenth century. The white limestone is the same as in Rocca Calascio and the other borghi of the Baronia di Carapelle, but here the effect is different: the borgo is not abandoned — it is lived in, inhabited, lit by candlelight at dusk, crossed by people heading home with their groceries.

Santo Stefano deserves at least a full day of unhurried exploration, but the best way to catch its true soul is to stay at least one night: seeing the borgo at dawn and after dinner, once the tourist coaches have left, is a completely different experience.

A brief history: from Sextantio to the Medici, from earthquake to rebirth

The name "Sessanio" is a corruption of the Latin Sextantio, the name of a small Roman settlement that once stood near the current borgo. It literally meant "six miles" — the distance from the Roman city of Peltuinum, an important crossroads between Rome and the Adriatic.

The medieval borgo as we see it today emerged between the 11th and 12th centuries, and from the 13th century onward became part of the Baronia di Carapelle alongside Calascio, Rocca Calascio, Castelvecchio Calvisio, and Carapelle Calvisio. In 1463, King Ferrante of Aragon granted the fief to Antonio Piccolomini Todeschini, and in 1579 Costanza Piccolomini, the last of her line, sold the Baronia to Francesco de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, for one hundred and six thousand ducats.

It was under the Medici that Santo Stefano experienced its golden age: the borgo became an important center for the production and trade of "carfagna" wool, a coarse black wool used for military uniforms and monks' habits, which — according to historical records — generated a significant share of the Grand Duchy's revenues. Medici crests were affixed above the main gate and on the tower, and the Florentine Renaissance style left a lasting mark on the village's architecture.

The decline came in two traumatic waves: the earthquake of 1703, which damaged the borgo, followed by a slow emigration over the following centuries. When Italian-Swedish entrepreneur Daniele Kihlgren arrived in Santo Stefano by motorcycle in the late 1990s and fell in love with it, the village had just seventy residents left and half its buildings in ruins. The earthquake of April 2009 caused the Torre Medicea to collapse almost entirely — it has since been rebuilt — and inflicted further damage; but it was precisely in those years that Kihlgren's conservation-led restoration project turned Santo Stefano into an international case study in historic borgo regeneration.

What to see in Santo Stefano di Sessanio: 7 places not to miss

1. The Torre Medicea

This is the borgo's symbol, visible from miles away. Standing roughly twenty meters tall with a cylindrical plan, it was built in the 14th century as a watchtower, in visual communication with the towers of Rocca Calascio, Castel del Monte, Castelvecchio Calvisio, and Collepietro. It takes its name from the Medici family, who crowned it with their crest. Almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake of April 6, 2009, it has been faithfully reconstructed and is once again open to visitors with a local guide: from the top, the panorama sweeps across Gran Sasso, Maiella, and Sirente-Velino.

2. The Porta Medicea

The historic entrance to the borgo, restored in the 16th century by the Medici. It presents itself as a turreted block built against a residential building, with a pointed arch topped by the Florentine family's coat of arms (six balls, five red and one blue with three golden fleurs-de-lis of France) and a machicolation once used for defense. Walking through it is the best way to truly "enter" Santo Stefano.

3. Piazza Medicea and Palazzo delle Logge

The institutional heart of the village, it is home to the Palazzo delle Logge, once the seat of the Captain of Justice, with a 16th-century arcade built by the same Florentine stonemasons who worked on the Casa del Capitano. The piazza is also flanked by the chapel of the Madonna del Suffragio (or delle Anime Sante).

4. The Church of Santo Stefano Protomartire

The main parish church, dedicated to the patron saint, stands just outside the walls. Of 14th-century origin, it was restored after the 1703 earthquake. The interior has three naves, with a cross-vaulted central nave and 18th-century canvases depicting scenes from the martyrdom of Saint Stephen and of Christ. Damage from the 2009 earthquake required extensive consolidation work.

5. The Church of the Madonna del Lago

A short distance from the borgo, beside the small lake at the foot of the hill, stands this 17th-century single-nave chapel with a portico on its façade. It is one of the most photographed spots: in autumn, when the woodland turns red and orange, the reflection of the bell tower in the water is truly breathtaking.

6. La Buscella

An almost hidden detail, but a charming one: in the oldest stretch of the town walls you'll find a narrow slit called the "Buscella." Local legend has it that this was where young lovers would slip away to steal secret kisses, out of sight of the rest of the borgo. Look for it.

7. Alleyways, vaulted passages and "case-mura"

The most beautiful thing about Santo Stefano, however, appears on no monument list: it's the borgo as a whole. Wander without hurry along Via Sotto gli Archi, duck into the vaulted underpasses that once sheltered residents from wind and snow, look up at the "case-mura" and "case-torri" — dwellings with tiny windows built when defensive walls and civilian homes were one and the same. Retrace your steps more than once: every corner changes with the light.

Sextantio: the albergo diffuso that saved the borgo

You cannot talk about Santo Stefano di Sessanio without talking about Sextantio Albergo Diffuso. The project, conceived in the 1990s by Daniele Kihlgren and today managed by Sextantio Ospitalità Diffusa based in Spoltore (Pescara), has literally restored a third of the borgo, transforming ancient farmhouses into rooms and suites of a scattered hotel spread across the village's alleyways.

The philosophy is "development without construction": no new buildings, no concrete, faithful restoration of existing structures. The rooms preserve their fireplaces, floors, and time-worn plaster, along with the simple furnishings of the Abruzzese tradition — yet beneath the stone, invisibly, run underfloor heating, Wi-Fi, and everything you'd expect from a five-star property. It is recognized by Design Hotels, was awarded One Michelin Key in both 2024 and 2025, and is regularly cited as one of Italy's most innovative hotels.

Sextantio is more than just accommodation: it includes a restaurant, Sextantio Cucina, which revives recipes from the peasant tradition gathered through ethnographic research with the Museo delle Genti d'Abruzzo; a textile workshop dedicated to carfagna wool; and a calendar of experiences ranging from bread-baking workshops in a 17th-century wood-fired oven, to birdwatching, truffle hunting and mountain herbal tea tastings.

Let's be honest: staying at Sextantio comes at a price, and it's the kind of experience you give yourself once in a lifetime. But even just having dinner at the Cantinone — the dining room carved into the rock — is a meaningful way to connect with the project.

What to eat: the Santo Stefano lentil and peasant cuisine

The borgo's iconic product is the lentil of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, a Slow Food Presidium. It is a tiny, dark lentil with a thin skin, grown only in this corner of Abruzzo between 1,200 and 1,400 meters, on dry, poor soils, without irrigation or chemical fertilizers. Its intense flavor and distinctive texture have made it a sought-after ingredient in Italy's finest restaurants; look for it in the borgo's shops or taste it in a soup at a local restaurant.

Beyond the lentils, the area offers mountain potatoes, chickpeas and other legumes, pecorino, local cured meats such as mortadella di Campotosto, and a cucina povera built on scarcity: bread, pulses, wild herbs, and meat reserved for feast days. You'll find several osterie and trattorias in the borgo. Nearby, at the foot of the lake, La Locanda del Lago is a local institution, serving mountain dishes with views over the borgo.

What to do in Santo Stefano: experiences and excursions

The borgo is a perfect base for exploring the southern Gran Sasso. Here's what you can add to your itinerary:

• Trekking to Rocca Calascio: from the small lake at the foot of the borgo, one of the Park's most panoramic trails sets off, reaching the fortress of the films Ladyhawke and The Name of the Rose in about an hour and ten minutes. We described it in detail in the complete guide to Rocca Calascio.

• Circular tour of the Baronia di Carapelle: a roughly ten-kilometer trek linking Calascio, Rocca Calascio, Santo Stefano, and Castelvecchio Calvisio, passing through the four historic borghi of the ancient fief.

• Excursions to Campo Imperatore: just a few kilometers away lies Italy's "Little Tibet," the most striking high-altitude plateau in the Apennines, perfect for summer trekking and winter skiing.

• Birdwatching in the Park: the area is home to golden eagles, peregrine falcons, buzzards and — in more remote zones — the extremely rare Marsican brown bear.

• Bread-baking and cooking workshops: several operators (Sextantio among them) offer hands-on courses in bread, pasta, and traditional Abruzzese recipes.

• Truffle hunting: seasonal, with a trained dog and an expert truffle hunter, in the woods below Campo Imperatore.

• Winter snowshoeing: from December to March, snow permitting, guided excursions set off toward Rocca Calascio or across the plateau.

• Guided tour of the borgo and the Torre Medicea: organized by the Pro Loco and local operators, lasting about an hour.

Coming soon to Stravagando. We are currently selecting hosts and local guides from the Gran Sasso area who will offer these experiences directly on our platform. Sign up for our newsletter to be among the first to book.

How to get to Santo Stefano di Sessanio

The most practical way to reach Santo Stefano di Sessanio is by car.

• From Rome (approx. 2 hours): take the A24 motorway toward L'Aquila/Teramo, exit at L'Aquila Est, then follow the state road toward Sulmona, turning off for Barisciano and then Santo Stefano di Sessanio.

• From Pescara (approx. 1h 30'): take the A25 toward Rome, exit at Bussi-Popoli, then continue via Capestrano, Ofena, and Calascio.

• From L'Aquila (approx. 40 minutes): pass through Bazzano, San Gregorio, and Barisciano, then continue to the borgo.

The borgo has three free parking areas located to the east and south of the historic center: the largest is along the road arriving from Calascio. On weekends during peak season, parking fills up fast — arrive early.

Public transport: direct connections are limited and seasonal. If you're traveling without a car, you can reach L'Aquila by train or coach and then arrange a private transfer from there.

When to visit Santo Stefano di Sessanio

The borgo is beautiful in every season, though it changes considerably depending on when you visit:

• Spring (April–June): mild temperatures, wildflowers blooming across the plateau, trails in perfect condition.

• Summer (July–August): the busiest time. Early mornings and late evenings are the best hours to enjoy the borgo without the crowds.

• Autumn (September–November): arguably the perfect season. Spectacular foliage, soft light, fewer visitors.

• Winter (December–March): snow transforms Santo Stefano into a fairy-tale village. It's the season for snowshoeing, fireside dinners, and pastel sunsets over white stone.

Where to stay in Santo Stefano di Sessanio

Accommodation options are almost entirely concentrated within the historic borgo itself, in structures carved from ancient dwellings. The main options are:

• Sextantio Albergo Diffuso: the most iconic experience, described above. Four-star, high-end.

• Independent B&Bs and guesthouses: several smaller properties run by local families, in restored stone houses. Mid-range pricing.

• Agriturismos in the surrounding area: in Calascio, Castel del Monte, and the surrounding countryside, with genuine home cooking and more affordable rates.

During peak season (summer, spring long weekends, New Year's) book well in advance: the borgo is small and beds are limited.

What to see nearby

Santo Stefano is the ideal starting point for discovering the southern Gran Sasso. Close by you'll find:

• Rocca Calascio (10 minutes by car, 1h 10' on foot): the highest castle in Italy and one of the most dramatic fortresses in the world.

• Calascio: the small village below the fortress, with medieval and Renaissance architecture that passing tourists often overlook entirely.

• Castelvecchio Calvisio: a borgo of Roman origin, still largely off the tourist radar, part of the Baronia circuit.

• Campo Imperatore: about 30 minutes away, the most fascinating high-altitude plateau in the central Apennines, reachable by cable car from Fonte Cerreto.

• Castel del Monte (AQ): a medieval borgo clinging to the hillside at 1,345 meters, famous for its historical re-enactment of the "Notte delle Streghe" in August.

• L'Aquila: about 40 minutes away, Abruzzo's regional capital in full post-earthquake renaissance, with basilicas, fountains, and a vibrant cultural scene reborn.

Frequently asked questions about Santo Stefano di Sessanio

How much time do you need to visit Santo Stefano di Sessanio?

To visit the historic center alone, 2–3 hours are enough: a stroll through the borgo, a climb up the Torre Medicea (booking required), a coffee break, photos. If you add the lake, a lunch stop, and perhaps a trek toward Rocca Calascio, plan for a full day. To truly absorb the atmosphere, stay at least one night.

Can you climb the Torre Medicea?

Yes. After its post-earthquake reconstruction, the tower is once again accessible, exclusively on a guided visit during set hours. For information and reservations, contact the Pro Loco or the borgo's tourist information office. Entry is usually by free donation.

Is Santo Stefano di Sessanio one of the "Borghi più belli d'Italia"?

Yes, it is a member of the national club of the Borghi più belli d'Italia and is also listed among the Bandiera Arancione destinations of the Touring Club. It is recognized as one of the best-preserved medieval borghi in the entire central Apennines.

Is it true that a film with George Clooney was shot in Santo Stefano?

Yes. Several scenes from the thriller The American (2010), directed by Anton Corbijn and starring George Clooney, were filmed in the borgo's alleyways and inside the Sextantio albergo diffuso. The entire film was shot in the province of L'Aquila, across Sulmona, Castel del Monte, Capestrano, Calascio, and Castelvecchio Calvisio.

What local specialties should you try?

The star is the lentil of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, a Slow Food Presidium, usually served as a soup. Add to that pecorino, local cured meats, mountain potatoes, wood-fired bread, and the dishes of the peasant kitchen: pulse soups, handmade pasta, grilled meats. To drink, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is the classic pairing.

What's the best way to combine Santo Stefano with a visit to Rocca Calascio?

The most evocative combination is the trek that starts from the lake below Santo Stefano and reaches Rocca Calascio in about an hour and ten minutes, with a gentle elevation gain and sweeping views of Gran Sasso. For those who'd rather not walk, it's ten minutes by car. You'll find the full itinerary in our guide to Rocca Calascio.

Can you visit Santo Stefano di Sessanio in winter?

Yes, and it's one of the most beautiful experiences you can have. The access road is generally kept clear, but with snow you may need winter tires or chains. The borgo itself, snowshoeing toward Rocca Calascio or Campo Imperatore, and sunsets over the snow make winter a special season for those seeking silence and an atmosphere far removed from the tourist crowds.

Experience Santo Stefano di Sessanio with Stravagando

Santo Stefano is a borgo that asks to be visited in a particular way: without rushing, with attention to detail, ideally alongside someone from the area who can tell you about carfagna wool, the lentil, the earthquake, the Medici, the case-mura.

Stravagando is Italy's marketplace dedicated to experiences like these — guided treks, borgo tours, artisan workshops, excursions to Rocca Calascio, winter snowshoeing — offered by locally selected hosts, chosen one by one. We are currently building our catalog of Gran Sasso experiences, and Santo Stefano di Sessanio will be one of our core destinations.

If you are an environmental guide, a pro loco, a farm, an albergo diffuso, or a tourism operator in the area and you want to offer an authentic experience on our platform, get in touch: you're exactly who we're looking for.

If you're a traveler, sign up for our newsletter: we'll let you know as soon as the first experiences in Santo Stefano and Rocca Calascio are available to book online.

Buon viaggio.